The History of India

If you think Indian museums will provide an opportunity to learn about the history of the sub-continent, think again. Or at least don't expect anything comprehensive and don't expect to understand anything if you haven't read up on it already.

Predominantly a jumbled showcase of sentimental anecdotes and illegible personal letters from revered politicians, there's a sense that the primary purpose of much on offer is to serve as a kick for public patriotism. A rare piece of factual narrative is unlikely to contain any glimpse of self-criticism or balanced analysis and distasteful details may well be completely omitted. (The Indria Ghandi Memorial in Delhi serves as a prime example. No mention of the hated Emergency to be found.) This is of course in-keeping with the 'Incredible India' campaign which proliferates around tourist offices in the country. According to one employee, a continually positive projection is a must.

Artefact buffs however, will be in their element. They may not always be entirely relevant (in the memorial museums a lot of emphasis is put on childhood family relationships) but the efforts made to collect and preserve letters and other archive material are repeatedly impressive. Many visitors prefer to pass through the text heavy areas (there are only so many letters about school exercises and entire speeches one can read in the constrained opening times - less than 2 hours between lunch and closing is not uncommon) into the meticulously re-constructed rooms on offer in a number of the north's prime attractions.

So if seeing the very table that Ghandi sat at for dinner or standing on the original 1940s carpet (no, it really doesn't smell that great) which the politicians responsible for the partition passed over floats your boat, you'll be in heaven. Otherwise a good book will probably do a better job of filling in what you want to know.